Recognizing war in beirut

I'm pasting a recent email to friends, sent on 14 July 2006.

Dear friends,

I want to write a few quick words from this internet cafe in Beirut. First off, my current plan is to leave Beirut tomorrow morning (Sat) via cab up the coastal highway and depart Lebanon through the Tripoli-Aleppo border, IF Israel does not bomb the coastal highway tonight. Luckily there's a "pay-as-you-can" spot for me in a cab hired by a professor from the States-- lucky because current fares are upwards of $600 for the 90 minute ride. Then I'll bus/cab it down to Damascus and assess the next steps, e.g. whether to leave the Middle East now or continue studies in Syria.

In general, the US Embassy and AUB recommend for Americans to stay put. Most Lebanese are waiting out this period til Monday before making major decisions, in order to see if this crisis will abate or continue to escalate into a full-blown ME war.

Last night was terrifying. Israel threw seven bombs into Beirut, though I heard only five because a couple were released in quick succession. Really, I've never experienced fear like this before. There were two different kind of bombs and right when I became accustomed to the pattern of aircraft noise-whistling-explosion, a "silent bomb" was released that is even more terrifying. The bomb stills the air and a precise and sobering explosion replaces the vacuum of silence. Then the smaller M-6 plane flies overhead to assess the situation. The friend that I stayed with last night predicted exactly how many bombs and in what succession-- the situation is familiar to Beirutis.

We stayed in an apt at the edge of the southern suburbs and when we got up in the morning, New TV and CityTV reported that one bomb was a five minutes walk from where we were sleeping, and another hit a bridge also not far from the apartment. We slept in the hallway with a candle in case the electricity went out (it did) and b/c the corridor offered the most structural support.

Nothing like picking up a few war techniques from the Lebanese. I now know how to flush the toilet while preserving the maximum amount of water. and a friend just leaned over and promised to show me how to clean a AK-47 before I leave town (and told me to email this to all you :-). Makeshift industries are picking up quick as people shift into familiar war mode-- gas is available by queuing or by street peddlers who shuttle canisters by means of horse-and-wagon. People rest in the afternoon because it's damn hot during the day and who can sleep in the pre-dawn hours of bombing.

What's most absurd about all this is that I voluntarily chose to enter Beirut yesterday. I moved to Damascus last week in order to do an intesive language program there. And had plans to return to Beirut to a play by the famous Lebanese singer Fairouz (equivalent of tics to Radiohead or Madonna) for this weekend, but now hte play's been cancelled since Israel hit Baalbeck in the Beqaa valley. So anyways I took off from Syria yesterday and crossed into Lebanon and landed at a music concert. You could see the Israeli naval blockade from the gallery.

The border was ludicrous-- about 500 cars and buses in standstill traffic, from SUVs loaded up with families and suitcases on the roof, to Saudis readjusting their tourist plans, and then some guys just walking with bags across the border, taking chances that there's transport on the other side. For those of us crazy enough to be going against this traffic, we had to blare and bleep our way through this traffic because the road turned into a one-way street and there was no passage for the taxi. I asked one woman at the lebanese arrival station why she was going in and she answered that she (jordanian) just married a lebanese man five days ago so she's with him no matter what. She gave me a big hug when I told her she was crazy. No one asked me why I was entering (nor did I receive any grief as a US national) which is good because I'm not sure I had a tangible concrete reason. My fellow taximates were in good spirits the whole ride and decided to use me as a bodyguard if any offensive forces approach-- we have an American onboard! (of course i keep my full identity low-profile)

Anyways that road was bombed a few hours later.

I'll write again from Syria. We'll be glued to the TV tonight and hope for minimal action.

Thanks to all those who emailed and sent their love and I really don't want to worry anyone. I hope this email alleviates some anxiety-- I'm perfectly allright as is everyone I know and love. Life has stopped momentarily in Beirut but will hopefully pick up again next week, at least we all hope for this.

With love